Chocolate World

Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Who knew barley, chocolate made such a great food pair?
By Joannah Hill - The Baltimore Sun

Not too long ago if someone had told me chocolate and barley were natural companions, I would have had my doubts.

But two books spotlighting baking with whole grains have made a believer out of me.

“King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking” by King Arthur Flour (The Countryman Press, $35) and “Bob’s Red Mill Baking Book” prove there is more to whole-grain baked goods than wheat bread and bran muffins.

With nutrition experts encouraging us to consume three servings of whole grains every day, these recipes are a great way to incorporate more fiber into your diet. (While these recipes pump up the volume on grains, butter, eggs and sugar are also plentiful in a number of them, so these goodies are not entirely guilt-free.)

The kitchen wizards at King Arthur Flour have produced a work so comprehensive and accessible that it could be used as the definitive source for whole-grain baking.

The book is packed with information on the varieties of grains, baking techniques, nutritional information, a glossary of terms and entertaining asides, such as the difference between sticky buns and cinnamon rolls and the nuances of Marshmallow Fluff. The only thing missing is an index of specific grains to recipes.

If, for example, you have committed to an entire bag of millet, it would be helpful to have included a quick reference for all the recipes using that grain.

The recipes cover a broad and ambitious range. There are whole-wheat croissants and eclairs, and the humble chocolate-chip cookie gets a whole-grain makeover in both chewy and crunchy versions. Taste and texture are a determining factor in any baked treat and, for a dedicated refined-flour baker, these recipes were a revelation.

A honey cake with whole-wheat flour was tender and ambrosial. Chocolate-chip cookies made with barley flour had a mild, slightly nutty flavor.

And a luscious lemon-raspberry layer cake with whole-wheat pastry flour would be welcome at any fine table.

As with all cookbooks, it is best to read these recipes completely before beginning. A number of recipes require the dough or batter to rest overnight, to help soften the grain.

So be forewarned – if you’re craving a batch of snickerdoodles, you’ll have to wait at least 24 hours.

“Bob’s Red Mill Baking Book” by John Ettinger and the Bob’s Red Mill Family (Running Press, $29.95) takes a less academic, more laid-back approach to whole-grain baking. Produced by the people behind Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, this easy-going, informative book covers all the basics and is even slightly more adventurous in including several recipes for less well-known grains such as triticale, teff and Kamut.

Brownies made with barley flour were a hit with kids and adults. The light, mild-tasting brownies were pleasingly chocolaty with an ever-so-slight nuttiness. The Apple Bundt Cake combines whole-wheat pastry flour and white flour for a rich, moist treat.

The whole-wheat piecrust was a smashing success. I can’t wait to try this tasty, rustic crust on a fresh peach pie.

Barley Brownies

2 eggs, slightly beaten

6 tablespoons cocoa powder

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup barley flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil an 8-inch-by-8-inch baking dish.

In a large bowl, cream together the eggs with the cocoa, sugar, oil and vanilla.

In a medium bowl, sift or whisk together the barley flour, baking powder and salt. Gradually add the flour mixture to the egg mixture, mixing well. Stir in the walnuts, incorporating them well.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean.

Makes about 16 brownies.

Per serving: 186 calories, 3 grams protein, 11 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 20 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber, 26 milligrams cholesterol, 136 milligrams sodium.

From “Bob’s Red Mill Baking Book”

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